Planting or Relocating Shrubs
Planting or Relocating Shrubs
It is best to transplant at the most appropriate time of year for a particular shrub. Generally speaking , avoid drier seasons or when growth rate is high, when the plant is in full leaf, flower or fruit or the sap flowing. Deciduous shrubs can be moved when dormant late fall, winter,or very early spring, evergreens in autumn or spring. Avoid allowing the shrub roots to dry out when removed from the ground for any period.
Generally speaking the start and end of the growing season are usually the best times for transplanting 
shrubs as it allows time for the roots to settle into a new soil. New root growth is important to replace damaged roots and reconnect the plant with soil water and nutrients.
When transplanting shrubs and trees one of the biggest challenges is to avoid damage.
When transplanting shrubs that have to travel some distance or be kept out of the ground for an extended period wrap the root ball in a plastic bag or sacking.
Re-siting the shrub or tree
Consider the location you’re transplanting shrubs or trees into -
Space: are you giving the shrub or tree enough room to grow? Will it grow to overshadow other plants, invade a neighbhours property, obstruct pathways, or window views ?
BASIC GUIDELINES
1. Small shrubs under 3-feet tall, you should be able to handle the job on your own. For larger shrubs you need a helper.
2. Early spring or late fall are generally the best times to move shrubs, because there is little new leaf growth, and the plants are semi-dormant.
3. Advance planning is the best answer to making sure your shrub will thrive in its new location. About two months before the move the plant , with a spade dig straight down into the ground in a circle around the plant, about two feet away from the shrub itself. This will break up the root ball slightly, making it easier to remove the shrub when the time comes. Repeat this process again about a month before the move. Thus you a lessening the shock to the root system
4. Dig the new hole first. You’ll have to estimate how big the root ball of the shrub will be, but generally the new hole should be about as wide as the circle you’ve been digging around the shrub in its existing location .
5. Take the soil you removed from the new hole and mix it with any , compost, or other preparations you use in your garden if you like but it is now considered inadvisable to fill the hole with soil amendments. Simply fill the hole with good soil. Replace subsoil or clay topsoil. Recent research at the University of Georgia has shown that roots tend not to push out from the original hole size. amending the soil in the transplant area only furthers this behaviour .
6. To remove the shrub, dig around the circle you dug to prepare the roots for transplant . This time, move the shovel gently upwards once it is deeply in the ground. Continue doing this, going around and around the circle, several times until the root ball feels loose enough to be lifted out of the ground.
7. Carefully lift the shrub out with your spade and place the root ball on an old sheet or tarp. Wrap up the root ball to protect roots. Carry the shrub to the new location by the root ball, never by the branches. If the shrub is too heavy, place it on something sturdy and drag it to the new hole.
8. Replant the shrub in its new location, packing in the soil by hand. Make sure that the soil is packed tightly, but not so tight as to crush the roots. Water the area well and place a few of inches of mulch around the shrub.
WATERING AND AFTER PLANTING
Many plants die from too little or too much water during the first few months after planting or transplanting . Those planted in well-draining soil are likely to get too little water, while those planted in clay type poorly draining soil may get too much. The proper frequency and length of watering is rarely the same from one site to another. Determine when and how much to water by becoming familiar with the soil characteristics of the planting site. Try to maintain constant moisture (not saturation) of the root ball. Newly planted plants require routine watering. Typically, 5-7 gallons, applied to the root ball on a weekly basis, however, differing soil and weather environments will affect the frequency of watering schedules. Examine the soil moisture levels 4-8 inches deep into the soil around the shrub to determine the need for water. If the soil feels dry or just slightly damp, watering is necessary. Soil type and drainage is a dominant factor. Well-drained, sandy soil will need more water, and more often than a clay soil that may hold too much water. A slow trickle of the garden hose at the base of the plant for several hours or until the soil is thoroughly soaked is the best method. Short, frequent watering should be avoided as this does not promote deep root growth but rather, the development of a shallow root system leaves the plant too vulnerable to environmental factors.
MULCH
Mulch helps conserve moisture in the soil, moderates temperature extremes and reduces weeds. Place 3-6 inches of mulch over the soil, pulling it away from the trunk of the plant. Adding a mulch around the base of the plant is a very important part of plant care that is often overlooked. By mulching plants, a more favorable environment is provided for the tree roots. A mulch allows better infiltration of water, holds soil moisture, limits weed growth, and discourages injury from lawnmowers and weed wackers.
Fertilizer.
For the first few years, woody plants rarely need nutrients beyond those naturally occurring in the soil. No fertilizers or manure should be mixed with the fill soil, as this could cause root damage and deter root spread, If transplants appear to need fertilizer during the first few years, a totally soluble complete fertilizer should be applied .Fertilization of newly planted plants may be done every 2-3 years in the fall after leaves have fallen or in early spring before growth begins. It can be applied to the surface or placed in holes around the plants. Beware of burning the turf around the shrub if surface-applied. Surface applications should be watered in. Do not apply nitrogen in late summer unless the plant is nutrient deficient, as this can promote new growth that may not harden off properly and can be damaged by winter weather. Phosphorous and potassium can be applied in the fall as they will enhance winter acclimatization.Proper winter care begins in the summer. Proper watering and fertilization in spring and summer is required. Watering can be decreased in early fall and increased in late fall to provide water needed to withstand the drying winds of winter. Plants need to go dormant; don’t encourage late growth by heavy watering and nitrogen fertilization in early fall. Plants should be thoroughly watered in late fall just prior to the soil freezing.